Red pork tamales, made on the twenty-third of December by everybody at once — the tamalada — under Mamá Lola's direction. Every person has a job and nobody gets to choose it.

Ingredients
Masa, lard, broth, salt
Pork shoulder, slow-cooked and shredded
Dried chiles — guajillo and ancho — for the red sauce
Corn husks, soaked overnight
Method
Spread the masa thin on the husk — thinner than you think. A spoon of pork in red sauce, fold, and stand them up in the pot. Steam until the masa comes away clean.
Who made it
Everyone. Mamá Lola tasted the masa and pronounced it ready, or not.