Napa cabbage kimchi, made at gimjang — the November weekend when Halmeoni and every woman she knew salted forty heads of cabbage in the basement of the house in Flushing.
Ingredients
Napa cabbage, salted overnight
Gochugaru, garlic, ginger, fish sauce, salted shrimp
Radish, scallion, a little sugar
Rice-flour paste to bind
Method
Salt the cabbage until it bends without breaking. Rinse, drain, and rub the paste into every leaf with gloved hands. Pack tight and leave it to ferment — then into the kimchi fridge.